Despite pizza originating in Italy, America has taken pizza on an incredible journey since it came across the Atlantic. One thing that fascinates me is how two pizzas: Sicilian Pizza vs Detroit pizza, which are quite similar are actually very different. Let’s take a look before making one (or both)!
Pizza may have been invented in Naples, Italy in the early 1800’s (and quite likely before that) but since the forefathers of American pizza arrived at Ellis Island about one hundred years later, we have seen (and eaten) a revolution of pizza distinctive to the various parts and culture of our country. Detroit style pizza being an excellent example!
That’s not to say that Italy didn’t also do the same with their creation – Sicilian pizza being a great example of this spirit of regional innovation. And quite possibly the ancestor of Detroit style too?
So what better comparison than these two variations on a thick-crust pizza!
Speaking of the Crust…
…one thing these pizzas both have in common is a thick crust very much like a focaccia. The pizza dough for both styles requires a long fermentation (typically 48 hours of cold fermentation) of a high-hydration dough. This is what allows both pizzas to develop the structure that they’re known for.
By the Way: American-Sicilian Pizza is its own thing
This grandma pizza is a classic example.
Note that here in the US, Sicilian pizza has undergone its own revolution. Although commonly still called just Sicilian, this American variation differs from the original.
In particular, the American Sicilian pizza places a heavy emphasis on cheese and the toppings have also been Americanized; in addition to the rich tomato sauce, this version is laden with generous amounts of mozzarella cheese, and often includes a variety of other toppings like pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, and peppers. You’ll soon see that this may be the evolutionary link between Italian Sicilian pizza and Detroit style pizza!
The Tale of Two Cities (and Their Beloved Pizzas)
Sicilian Pizza: A Mediterranean Marvel
Sicilian pizza, or “sfincione,” has its roots deeply embedded in the sun-drenched soil of Sicily, Italy. This pizza features a thick, fluffy bread base topped with a rich tomato sauce and, typically strongly flavored toppings such as onions, anchovies, herbs, and strong cheeses like toma or caciocavallo (aka horse cheese, even though it doesn’t come from horses!). And yet, they generally have less cheese than we find on an American-style pizza. It may also feature a sprinkling of breadcrumbs.
Over time, it evolved, especially in the United States, into what many know as Sicilian pizza today – a thick, square-cut pizza with a pillowy crust, robust sauce, and layers of melty cheese.
What’s Special About Pizza Sicilia?
Sicilian pizza is rather unique from the “original” in almost every way. This style evolved from ancient civilizations’ bread traditions that occupied Sicily, including Greeks, Romans, and Arabs.
Traditional Sicilian pizza generally has a thick crust, is typically rectangular (but doesn’t have to be), uses pomodoro di Pachino (or Pachino tomatoes) which can come in four varieties, including cherry and grape tomatoes. Alternatively, Sicilian pizza sauce may be made from Rosso Sicilian tomatoes, which appear to be only available in the US by growing them yourself! But these unique heirloom tomatoes appear to be a great choice for a sauce.
If you’re looking for a quick, authentic sauce option, you could try this cherry tomato sauce by Agromonte which is available from Amazon.
Sicilian pizzas are then generally topped with strong, savory ingredients like onions, anchovies, and strong cheeses like toma or caciocavallo (aka horse cheese, even though it doesn’t come from horses!). Often, they have less cheese than we find on an American-style pizza.
Sicilian pizza is also baked a pan, well oiled with olive oil. These pizzas are less about the cheese and more about the vibrant tomato sauce, enriched with herbs and sometimes sardines or anchovies for an added punch of flavor. Sometimes the only cheese used is a light sprinkling of pecorino or another hard, grated variety.
American-Sicilian Pizza
When Sicilian pizza made its voyage to the shores of the United States, it transformed in a way that reflects the American ethos of adaptation and innovation. The American version of Sicilian pizza is often referred to as just “Sicilian pizza” in pizzerias across the country. Still known for its rectangular shape and thick crust, but unlike its Italian ancestor, the American Sicilian pizza places a heavy emphasis on cheese. It moves from a background actor to a starring role, reflecting the American palate’s love for cheesy, hearty pizzas.
American-Sicilian Grandma Pizza
Grandma pizza, or “pizza alla nonna” in Italian, is named for the simple, home-cooked meals Italian grandmothers are renowned for.
The story goes that Italian immigrants brought their cherished recipes with them to the New World, adapting their traditional dishes to their new environment. The grandma pizza is believed to have originated in Long Island, New York, in the 1970s, though its exact origins are a bit of a culinary mystery, woven into the fabric of Italian-American history. The grandma pizza is renown for a focus on fresh, but simple ingredients making a pizza an Italian-American grandma might make for the family.
Note that Grandma pizza is commonly found to be a topping variant to Sicilian pizza, it can also often be found with a thin, square crust, which is a departure from the thicker crust associated with traditional Sicilian pizza in both Sicily and its American counterpart. It can also be found to have the sauce above OR below the cheese, making it an interesting hybrid.
Detroit Pizza: The Motor City Creation
On the other side of the Atlantic, Detroit pizza is a relatively new kid on the block, born in the 1940s within the bustling blue-collar city of Detroit, Michigan. Originating in the post-World War II era, it was born out of resourcefulness and innovation. Workers in Detroit’s booming automotive factories needed hearty, filling meals.
This pizza took shape in tall, rectangular automotive parts trays from Motor City assembly lines, giving it its signature thick, square shape. Detroit pizza is characterized by its thick, airy crust, crispy cheese edges (thanks to cheese being spread all the way to the sides), and a reverse layering of ingredients, with cheese directly on the dough and sauce dolloped on top in racing stripes.
It is baked in tall, rectangular pizza pans. Those pans are rather unique in that they used to be used to hold auto parts on the Detroit assembly lines. Now they are greased up to get a crispy crust on the pizza!
Per Wikipedia, the Detroit-style pizza was first seen at Buddy’s Rendezvous in 1946. Buddy’s was opened in 1936 by Gus and Anna Guerra as a “blind pig” – meaning it was a prohibition-era speakeasy. Now, Buddy’s is known as Buddy’s Pizzeria and is an independent restaurant chain.
What’s Special About Detroit Pizza?
Detroit Style Pizza borrows its roots from older deep-dish airy-crust pizza (surely including the Sicilian), but with a few twists. Unlike other pizza styles, the cheese (traditionally Wisconsin brick cheese often mixed with white cheddar) goes right up to the edges, caramelizing beautifully against the pan for a crispy, cheesy border that’s simply irresistible.
The sauce, another defining feature, is ladled on top of the cheese in bold, red stripes. This method, known as “racing stripes” (what could be more motor city??), means the sauce remains vibrant and distinct, rather than melding into the crust and cheese – many bites won’t have any sauce at all – which is vastly different than Sicilian pizza.
Detroit pizza toppings are also various but most commonly including pepperoni, which curls up into delightful little “roni cups” or “grease chalices” as it cooks. On the other hand, many Detroit style recipes often don’t add any additional toppings both to keep each bite as airy as possible – but also because this pizza really doesn’t need any. Again, this is quite different than the typical Sicilian.
Conclusion: Sicilian Pizza vs Detroit Pizza
For those adventurous in their pizza-making, experimenting with both styles can be a delightful way to explore how the changes in emphasis on the sauce versus cheese can have a profound impact on your pizza. From the humble origins of sfincione to the cheese-laden squares of American Sicilian pizza, there’s a world of taste to be discovered and savored.
If you want to try for yourself, we have recipes for both styles below for you to make in your own home! Both the Detroit Pizza and Sicilian Pizza tell a story, and every variation offers a new experience.
Buon appetito!
Sicilian Biga Grandma Pizza Recipe
Equipment
- 2 Baking Pans (Cookie Sheet)
- 1 Pizza Scissors (Optional)
Ingredients
- 2 ounces water warm – no higher than 110°F (filtered/bottled preferred). This is for the Biga starter
- 3 ounces high-protein flour (high gluten). This is for the Biga starter.
- 1 pinch dry active yeast This is for the Biga starter.
- 3 cups high-protein flour (high gluten)
- ⅓ cups water warm – no higher than 110°F (filtered/bottled preferred)
- ¾ cup water ice water (filtered/bottled preferred)
- ½ tablespoon dry active yeast
- 2 teaspoons salt fine
- 1 ½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil divided into 3x 1/2 tablespoons
Grandma Pizza Toppings
- 1 cup tomato sauce crushed or pureed. Savory cherry tomatoes preferred.
- 2 cups provolone cheese grated (caciocavallo or toma is more traditional)
- 1 teaspoon oregano dried
- ¼ cup basil leaves fresh, chopped (or 2 teaspoons of dried)
Instructions
Day 1: Make Your Biga
- Add a pinch of yeast to 2 ounces (1/4 cup) of warm water in a small bowl or mason jar. Whisk and let stand for 5 minutes to ensure the yeast is active and alive.
- Add the yeast. Stir with a knife or flat spatula. The starter will be quite sticky, so scrape the blade on the edge.
- Cover and store the Biga for at least 12 hours at room temperature or up to 24 hours. If storing longer, refrigerate after 12 hours at room temperature.
Day 2: Starting the Dough
- Put a small dish of water near your work area to wet your hands as needed.
- In a stand mixer bowl, put in the warm water and add the yeast and whisk. Allow to mix for 5 minutes so that foam appears.
- Add the Biga to the mixing bowl.
- Add 1/2 cup of flour and mix in the stand mixer at its slowest setting.
- Add the cold water and continue to mix.
- Slowly add the rest of the flour. The dough will still be very sticky and will not look very smooth yet.
- Wet your hands and pull the dough off of the hook
- Add the salt and continue to mix for another 1 minute
- Add 1 teaspoons of olive oil and continue to mix. You may need to stop the mixer and pull the dough from the hook occasionally to ensure the dough is mixing well.
- Use a brush to coat a baking pan with 1 teaspoon of oil.
- Wet your hands and transfer the dough to the baking pan.
- Re-wet your hands.
- Stretch the dough by pulling it left and right, then fold the stretched parts on top.
- Turn the pan a quarter turn and repeat. It will look like an envelope.
- Fold the corners into the center and pinch together.
- Turn over the dough using your wet hands and smooth the edges.
- Cover the pan in plastic wrap and let the dough rest for 20 minutes.
- Place the covered pan in the refrigerator for 24 hours (up to 48 hours).
Day 3: Finishing the Dough and Making the Pizza
- Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to warm up for 1 to 2 hours on the countertop.
- Use a brush to oil a second baking sheet with another 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil.
- Invert the first pan and allow the dough to fall from the first pan onto the second. The dough will still be very sticky, so use a wetted spatula or dough scraper if it does not completely come away by itself.
- Flip the dough over so both sides are oiled.
First Stretch
- Gently using the fingers of both hands, press the dough outward (not pulling) to stretch the dough towards the edges of the baking sheet. The dough won’t likely get all the way to the edges this first time. Don’t tear the dough trying to get to the edges, but try to get it about the right shape of the pan.
- Let the dough rest uncovered in a warm space away from any draft for 30 minutes. The dough will contract but it will also start expanding.
Second Stretch
- Oil your fingers and gently “pillow” (press like you’re playing the piano) the dough to cover the entire pan. Try to preserve the airy texture but also trying to get the dough evenly distributed across the pan. It will still likely not reach the corners completely.
- Let the dough rest uncovered again in a warm space, away from any draft for 90 minutes. The dough should rise to the edge of the pan and fill it entirely now. Even if it doesn’t, do not stretch or press the dough again.
Cooking the Pizza
- Preheat your oven to 450°F. If you have a pizza stone big enough, you can cook the pizza in the pan on top of the pizza stone.
- Add your sauce, toppings (except the basil), then cheese.
- Bake in the oven for 7 minutes, then rotate the pan.
- Bake for another 7 minutes until the top of the crust is golden and the cheese is browning.
- Remove the pan and let stand for 5 minutes.
- Use a spatula to transfer the pizza to a cutting board.
- Add the basil.
- Sicilian pizza is generally cut “tavern style”, meaning into squares or rectangles.
Notes
Nutrition
Detroit Style Pizza Recipe
Equipment
- 1 13" x 9" Cake Pan
- 1 Sauce Pan
- 1 Pizza Scissors (Optional)
- 1 Blender (only required if the canned tomatoes are chunky)
Ingredients
- 20 ounces Pizza dough (recommend our copy-cat version of Tony Gemignani’s Master Dough recipe but you can use another bread flour based recipe)
- 1 tablespoon salted butter (unsalted if you prefer)
- ½ tablespoon olive oil extra virgin
Detroit Pizza Sauce
- 11 ounces tomato sauce crushed or pureed (use a high quality brand)
- 4 ounces tomato paste (use a high quality brand)
- 1 pinch oregano dried
- ¼ cup basil leaves fresh, chopped (or 2 teaspoons of dried)
- 1 teaspoon olive oil extra virgin
Detroit Pizza Cheese
- 2 cups Wisconsin Brick cheese grated (Munster is a suitable alternative)
- 1.5 cups white cheddar cheese grated
Additional Toppings
- 18 slices Pepperoni (mini cups preferred)
- 1 tablespoon Pecorino cheese grated (adjust to taste)
- 1 pinch oregano dried
Instructions
Preparing the Dough
- Remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to warm up for 1 to 2 hours on the countertop.
- Using the cold butter in your fingers, rub it over the entire surface of the cake pan. It will melt as you work it and use your fingers to make sure that it completely covers the bottom and the sides of the pan all the way to the top.
- Drizzle 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil into the center of the pan on top of the butter.
- Place the covered pan in the refrigerator for 24 hours (up to 48 hours).
- Invert the container with the dough and allow the dough to gently fall into the center of the pan. The dough will be a bit sticky, so use a wetted spatula or dough scraper if it does not completely come away by itself.
- Gently flip the dough over so both sides are oiled.
First Stretch
- Gently using the fingers of both hands, press the dough outward (not pulling) to stretch the dough towards the edges of the baking sheet. The dough won’t likely get all the way to the edges this first time. Don’t tear the dough trying to get to the edges, but try to get it about the right shape of the pan.
- Let the dough rest uncovered in a warm space away from any draft for 30 minutes. The dough will contract initially but it will also start expanding.
Second Stretch
- Oil your fingers and gently “pillow” (press like you’re playing the piano) the dough to cover the entire pan. Try to preserve the airy texture but also trying to get the dough evenly distributed across the pan. It will still likely not reach the corners completely.
- Let the dough rest uncovered again in a warm space, away from any draft for 90 minutes. The dough should rise to the edge of the pan and fill the bottom entirely now. Even if it doesn't, do not stretch or press the dough again.
- Preheat your oven to 500°F. If you have a pizza stone big enough, you can cook the pizza in the pan on top of the pizza stone.
- Prepare your toppings: grate the cheese, pull out the pepperoni (if you're using it), and prepare the sauce.
Making Detroit Pizza Sauce
- If your crushed tomatoes are chunky, you will want to blend them before the next step.
- Combine the pizza sauce ingredients in a sauce pan: crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, olive oil, oregano, sea salt.
- Stir the sauce thoroughly.
- When the pizza goes into the oven (next step), begin to warm the sauce at low heat.
Cooking the Detroit Pizza
- Place the pizza pan in the oven. If you have a pizza stone, place the pan on the stone. Cook for 6 minutes.
- While the pizza is cooking, begin warming the sauce (as per above).
- Remove the pizza pan from the oven and place on top of the stove or on a large wooden cutting board.
- Distribute the cheddar cheese around the edge of the pizza so that it's touching the edge of the pan. The cheese is supposed to melt down the sides.
- Distribute the Brick (or Munster) cheese over the top of the rest of the pizza.
- Rotate the pan 180° and return it to the oven. Do not place it on the pizza stone. Cook for 7 minutes.
- Remove the pizza from the oven.
- Add the pepperoni (if you are using it) in three rows lengthwise across the pizza.
- Using a soup spoon, make 2 "racing stripes" of sauce lengthwise across the pizza (between the rows of pepperoni).
- Rotate the pizza pan 180° and return it to the oven back on the pizza stone. Bake for another 5 minutes and turn off the oven.
- When the top of the crust is golden and the cheese is browning, remove the pan and quickly use a plastic spatula to separate the pizza from the pan. Once the spatula can go around the entire pizza, use the spatula to lift and slide it out of the pan onto a large cutting board.
- Allow the pizza to rest for about 3-5 minutes so that the cheese can harden before cutting.
- While waiting, put the extra sauce into ramekins or bowls for dipping.
- Cut the pizza into slices or squares.
- Add additional Oregano and grated Pecorino cheese to taste.
Notes
Nutrition
Todd’s cooking skills have revolved around the grill since about age 12, when he developed a love for grilling and took over for Mom at the BBQ. He worked at Wendy’s and at Earl’s Tin Palace (a restaurant chain in Canada) but never really did any sort of baking…until he and Heather started making pizza together! Now he’s often making dough in the mornings and pizza in the evenings.