I have been quite enjoying my exploration of American pizzas these past few weeks. The latest on my list of explorations is the New Jersey Style pizza (also called the NJ Tomato Pie Pizza), which is an early 20th century twist on the New York-style.
Trenton, New Jersey’s addition to the pizza family appears to have been invented not long after the New York-style pizza (and almost assuredly inspired the Philly Tomato Pie, given Philadelphia’s only 30 miles away).
Created by Neapolitan immigrant Giuseppe “Joe” Papa who opened the restaurant PaPa’s Tomato Pies in 1912, there’s something to be said about the lineage of the NJ Tomato Pie pizza – they boast that this is the oldest continuously family-owned pizzeria in the USA! Now that’s something to take pride in! And Joe Papa’s personal story is quite worth a read – how many people start their own pizzeria at age 17?
And what makes Papa’s tomato pie really unique? Mustard!
Did You Say Mustard??
I sure did.
Something like putting mustard on a pizza surely has some mythology behind the story!
The newspaper, The Trentonian, published an article in 2016 discussing the history of the Mustard Pizza Pie – and there are several variations of the history. Here’s a short excerpt discussing one of the funnier myths, but you can read several more in the whole article:
As the legend goes, for whatever reason, [Bill] Shuster decided to put spicy brown mustard to his tomato pie. One story has it some drunk walked in and demanded a “mushroom” pie, but Shuster misheard it as “mustard.”
Article by Jeff Edelstein jedelstein@trentonian.com
The Trentonian. Published: September 16, 2016
Variation: The Trenton Tomato Pie (aka the Mustard Pizza Pie)
(although some folks would say not to call it pizza!)
Joe Papa’s unique twist on the tomato pie was to add mustard between the crust and the cheese. His tomato pie also uses considerably less sauce than some tomato pies. These twists on the recipe generally get dubbed the “Trenton Tomato pie” because Papa’s pizzeria was originally located in the town of Trenton (roughly halfway between New York and Philadelphia).
The De Lorenzo’s – the “younger upstarts”
In about 1936 to 1938, the DeLorenzo family opened another tomato pie restaurant in Trenton, NJ in 1936, which continues to operate today in Hamilton, NJ.
One of 12 children of the original DeLorenzo family, Alexander “Chick” De Lorenzo, struck out on his own and founded De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies (also in Trenton) after serving in World War II in 1947. Although they have changed locations (now in Robbinsville, NJ and Yardley, PA), Chick’s legacy also lives on today. Neither of the De Lorenzo restaurants seem to embrace that radical mustard idea!
And yes, they spell their last names differently! DeLorenzo and De Lorenzo!
What You Need to Make New Jersey Tomato Pie
There really is something unique in a pizza when the cheese goes between the crust and the tomatoes (which are generally hand-crushed tomatoes and not sauce).
And you’re going to have to make up your own mind on the mustard. I suggest putting it on half to find out for yourself!
It’s Not Just a Pizza
In New Jersey, the New Jersey style pizza isn’t just another pizza. In fact, many folks in NJ would call it pie instead of pizza. The NJ Tomato pie is known because of the role it plays in connecting people. Be it in one of the various family-oriented pizza restaurants that have been around for decades to pizzas enjoyed at gatherings with family and friends, the tomato pie appears to share the strong social aspect of pizza and then maybe a little more?
How to Make New Jersey Tomato Pie Recipe
Alright, enough talk! Let’s learn to make this wonderful pizza!
Ingredients You Need for New Jersey Style Pizza
This recipe makes one 12″ NJ Tomato Pie.
- Pizza dough (we use Tony Gemignani’s Master Dough recipe for this pizza)
- Mozzarella cheese, whole milk (9-slices)
- 1 cup of New Jersey Pizza sauce (see below)
- Optional: Mustard (if you go this route, PaPa’s uses spicy brown mustard)
Although most popular when served “plain”, the tomato pie pizza can also accommodate a wide variety of additional toppings. Red or green peppers, mushrooms, spinach, garlic, grated Parmesan, and pepperoni are all pretty popular options commonly put on this pizza.
New Jersey Pizza Sauce (makes 1 cup for pizza)
This is very similar to the sauce used on New York pizzas except that the New Jersey style has more focus on the hand-crushed tomatoes. But if you’re planning to make that style in the next few days, you can make double the amount and keep it in the fridge for up to 4 days before using (or put in the freezer).
- 3/4 cup of hand-crushed San Marzano tomato
- The hand-crushed tomatoes are more for the unique texture of this pizza sauce and pretty important to the authenticity.
- You can either buy pre-crushed tomatoes or you can buy a can of whole, steamed San Marzano tomatoes and crush as described below.
- 1/4 cup of tomato paste (Contadina is pretty easily found in most grocery stores)
- 1/2 teaspoon of fine sea salt
- 1/2 teaspoon of dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil
To Make the Sauce:
To crush the tomatoes, make a slice in one side and, while holding that side down, crush the tomatoes into a deep bowl. You may want to cover the container with a tea towel to prevent the juice going everywhere in the kitchen! Crush each one very well. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir well.
When it’s time, apply the sauce at room temperature to the pizza.
How to Make New Jersey Style Pizza
The hallmark of the NJ tomato pie is that the cheese is under the sauce. And the hallmark of Papa’s version is a layer of mustard between the cheese and the crust.
I’ve noticed that Papa’s method for making this pizza uses a pizza pan. Same with De Lorenzo. But DeLorenzo (no space) launches the pizza from a peel into their oven. Since I’m going with Papa’s style (with mustard), I also make this pizza in a pizza pan.
- Remove the pizza dough from the fridge and allow to warm up to room temperature (usually about an hour).
- Preheat your oven to 550°F (or 500, if that’s the maximum for your oven).
- Stretch the dough: in general, the more gentle you are with all of these steps, the more tender the final crust will be.
- Lightly flour a work area for stretching the dough. Dust your hands with flour as well.
- Gently transfer the dough to the work area
- Press the center of the dough until it forms a disc
- Using both hands, press them into the center of the dough, preserving a rim around the edge.
- Gently stretch the dough by moving your hands away from each other 1″ to 2″.
- Rotate the dough about 10 degrees and repeat over and over.
- You should be able to get the dough to about a 10″ disk at this point.
- Lay the dough across the open palm of one hand and gently flip it onto the other. Again, rotate the dough and repeat a few more times (about half a dozen in total).
- The dough should be about 12″ in diameter, which is perfect for a small pizza pan.
- Lightly oil the pizza pan with olive oil using a basting brush.
- Transfer the pizza dough to the pan. Tuck it into the right shape of the pan trying to preserve the outer crust.
- Using the basting brush again, add 1 (even up to 1.5) ounces of spicy brown mustard to the pizza dough and spread it evenly over the crust. If you’re not sure you’re going to like this, you’re welcome to do it over just a portion of the pizza. But even my wife, who’s not a big fan of mustard, thought this blended into the overall flavor very well.
- Add a layer of sliced Mozzarella cheese.
- Put the pizza in the oven for 7 minutes.
- Rotate the pizza in the oven and remove.
- Spoon the tomato sauce in dollops over the pizza.
- Most NJ Tomato pies do not spread it evenly over the top of the pizza. Instead, because of the thickness of the hand crushed tomatoes, it will have an uneven distribution over the top.
- Return the pizza to the oven and cook for an additional 7 minutes.
- Remove and let rest for 3 minutes before using a spatula to separate it from the pan.
- Cut and serve immediately.
Tips and Tricks for this New Jersey Tomato Pie Recipe
- This pie (especially the mustard pie) is most renown for the flavor found in its plain version. Therefore, you might not want to get too busy with extra toppings.
- The tomatoes used in the sauce are really the feature ingredient. Use really good, flavorful tomatoes. High quality canned tomatoes are great and used by the Trenton pizzerias. Mix in some fresh, garden grown tomatoes if they are in season.
- If you find Mozzarella too simple, try using Provolone cheese.
- Parbaking (half-cooking) the pizza before putting on the sauce isn’t required, but it does elevate the cheese.
New Jersey Tomato Pie Pizza Recipe
Equipment
- 1 Basting Brush
- 1 Outdoor pizza oven Optional
- 1 Pizza Peel Optional
- 1 Pizza pan or cookie sheet (if cooking in regular oven)
- 1 Pizza Cutter
Ingredients
- 1 pizza dough ball 9-10 ounces. I recommend Tony Gemignani's Master Dough recipe, but this pizza will work great with a store-bought dough ball also.
- ¾ cup San Marzano tomato hand-crushed
- ¼ cup tomato paste Contadina is pretty easily found in most grocery stores
- ½ teaspoon sea salt fine
- ½ teaspoon dried oregano
- 1 teaspoon olive oil extra virgin
- 1 ounce mustard spicy brown
Instructions
- Remove the pizza dough from the fridge and allow to warm up to room temperature (usually about an hour).
- Preheat your oven to 550°F (or 500°F, if that's the maximum for your oven).
Prepare the Sauce
- To crush the tomatoes, make a slice in one side and, while holding that side down, crush the tomatoes into a deep bowl. You may want to cover the container with a tea towel to prevent the juice going everywhere in the kitchen!
- Crush each tomato very well, but you're not trying to get a puree consistency.
- Add the rest of the ingredients and stir well.
- Set aside until later.
Prepare Your Dough
- Stretch the dough: in general, the more gentle you are with all of these steps, the more tender the final crust will be.
- Lightly flour a work area for stretching the dough. Dust your hands with flour as well.
- Gently transfer the dough to the work area. Try not to let the air out of the dough.
- Press the center of the dough until it forms a disc.
- Using both hands, press them into the center of the dough, preserving a rim around the edge.
- Gently stretch the dough by moving your hands away from each other 1" to 2".
- Rotate the dough about 10 degrees and repeat over and over.
- You should be able to get the dough to about a 10" disk at this point.
- Lay the dough across the open palm of one hand and gently flip it onto the other. Again, rotate the dough and repeat a few more times (about half a dozen in total).
- The dough should be about 12" in diameter, which is perfect for a small pizza pan.
- Lightly oil the pizza pan with olive oil using a basting brush.
- Transfer the pizza dough to the pan. Tuck it into the right shape of the pan trying to preserve the outer crust.
Adding the Toppings
- Using the basting brush again, add 1 ounce of spicy brown mustard to the pizza dough and spread it evenly over the crust. If you're not sure about this, you're welcome to do it over just a portion of the pizza.
- Add a layer of sliced mozzarella cheese. You can cut the slices at an angle to maximize the cheese without doubling it up.
First Bake of the pizza
- Put the pizza in the oven for 7 minutes.
- Rotate the pizza in the oven and remove (this way you won't forget later).
- Spoon the tomato sauce in dollops over the pizza. Most NJ Tomato pies do not spread it evenly over the top of the pizza. Instead, because of the thickness of the hand crushed tomatoes, it will have an uneven distribution over the top.
Second Bake of the Pizza
- Return the pizza to the oven and cook for an additional 7 minutes. Note that you can finish this pizza in an outdoor pizza oven.
- Remove and transfer to a cutting board. Let the pizza rest for 3 minutes before cutting and serving immediately.
Nutrition
Todd’s cooking skills have revolved around the grill since about age 12, when he developed a love for grilling and took over for Mom at the BBQ. He worked at Wendy’s and at Earl’s Tin Palace (a restaurant chain in Canada) but never really did any sort of baking…until he and Heather started making pizza together! Now he’s often making dough in the mornings and pizza in the evenings.